Don’t let anyone install a new water heater for you unless they’ve reviewed these steps
A Cabrillo water heater installation will not begin until we’ve answered these questions and more. In fact, we won’t even quote you a price until we can establish exactly what’s needed at your home.
- Water Pressure – Is the water pressure at the water heater acceptable? (Pressure over 80psi can damage your new water heater)
- Hot Water Supply – Do you currently have enough hot water under normal conditions? Is the existing water heater sized properly?
- Hot Water Supply Under Abnormal Load – Is your hot water supply also adequate during peak periods such as holidays and special events, when your home may have an influx of visitors?
- Location – Is the water heater currently installed in a code approved location?
- Space – Is there adequate space for the new water heater to be installed?
- Flue Vent Size – Is the existing flue vent adequate for the new water heater?
- Combustion Air – Is there enough combustion air in the current location? (gas heaters need a sufficient supply of oxygen to operate safely)
- Relocate – Would you like to move the water heater to another area? (any remodeling plans in the future?)
- Safety Stand – Does this installation require an 18″ stand? Water heaters with unsealed combustion chambers (like many 75 and 100 gallon types) require a stand if they are located in the vicinity of a parked vehicle (typically a garage or near a garage). If there is a stand currently, is it code approved? Is the stand bolted to the floor?
- Safety Pan – Is the heater in a location that might require or need the installation of a safety pan? This is a metal containment pan with a drain on the side that will help contain any water that might leak out from under the heater. The drain line must then be run to an approved location.
- Bollard – Is the water heater in a place that would require a bollard? This is a 3″ diameter steel pole placed into the concrete to protect the heater from being hit by a car. You can use a parking guard.
- Gas Supply Line – Is the gas line to the water heater up to code? Is it properly secured?
- Emergency Gas Shut-off Valve – Does the emergency shut-off valve for the gas line work?
- Gas Flex Line – Is there a gas flex line going into the heater? Gas flex lines must be replaced at time of new installation. Any water heater rated at 100,000 B.T.U’s or more requires a special gas flex line or hard pipe.
- Emergency Water Shut-off Valve – Does the emergency water shut-off valve work? Is it located where it is accessible?
- Seismic Bracing – Is there code approved seismic bracing in the current installation? If so, is it strapped at 4 points?
- Flue Vent Installation – Is the flue pipe up to code? (this is the pipe that comes out of the top center of the heater and removes the un-burnt gases, carbon monoxide, to the outside) Is it sized properly? Does it work? (we will check) An oversized flue pipe can be a problem and cause condensation that could possibly shorten the life of your heater.
- Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve – Does the temperature and pressure relief valve terminate in a code approved location? This is a safety valve that all heaters have that will open if the temperature and pressure becomes excessive. If this occurs that scalding hot water must go someplace.
- Hot Water Return Line – Does it take a long time for certain areas of the house to get hot water? Can some type of hot water return line system be installed?
- Tankless Alternative – Is the installation of a tankless heater possible? Tankless heaters can be an effective option and should be examined as a viable alternative.